Ball Horticultural Knowledge Base

My Luna Red hibiscus has not bloomed by mid July. Its covered with clusters of small buds rather than larger ones this year. Should I de-bud some of the buds to get large flowers?

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 07:08:00 GMT

Abstract: Hi KatieThis is about the time Luna Hibiscus, which has over-wintered, would bloom here in the Midwest. We would suggest not removing buds.These plants do require full sun and ample moisture to do their best.

Is there a trick to get Alyssum pelleted or coated seed to germinate evenly. Our difficulty has been in getting the pellet or coating to dissolve even with the wettest possible misting programs. This happens even with the Snow Crystal and Clear Crystal varieties, which are superior when the seed is raw.

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 05:56:00 GMT

Abstract: To assure germination, one of the major factors is temperature. The recommended temperature for Stage 1 of plug production ranges from the mid 70s-80°F depending on the reference. The point is that a rather warm soil temperature is best for germination. Next, the recommendation for the multi-seed pellet is to cover rather thickly with vermiculite and thoroughly wet the area.

For three years my one bed won't grow anything. I have it around a sunset maple tree. I tried impatiens - they just sat there and then turned black and died. I tried petunias - they lasted longer and did the same thing. I tried impatiens again with the same results. What could be wrong? I have successfully grown impatiens in this bed before this.

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 06:28:00 GMT

Abstract: Thank you for your inquiry. Below are some points you may want to review in light of your problem. If these do not help you may want to have a soil test done. Most major universities with horticultural departments can do this. This will only give nutritional information of the soil. If the problem is disease, the same institutions may be able to determine the cause if they have the dying plants to test.

Without seeing the problem and knowing precisely what has been done to the plants, we cannot determine the cause of the problem. Several points you may want to consider:

Soil- It should be well drained and clean for container grown crops, not just soil dug from the garden. Most commercial soil mixes you purchase are satisfactory. For crops growing in beds, the addition of organic matter such as peat moss, compost, etc. will improve drainage and aeration, which is important to most crops.

Water- Watering is often considered an art, not a science. It is likely the single biggest cause plants do not perform to their maximum potential for the home gardener. Do not dry to the point of wilting or over water. The growing container or basket should have drainage holes. When watering, always apply enough water to have some drip from the container. Re-water when the soil an inch or so deep in the containerseems moderately dry to the touch.

Fertilizer- Too much can cause burn. Use at the recommended rate or less at regular intervals. In general, the more often you water a plant the more often fertilizer needs to be applied. When applying liquid fertilizers to a crop it is advisable that the soil not be too dry. A slow release type fertilizer, such as Osmocote, may be a good choice for plants that must be watered often or liquid fertilizer is too inconvenient to apply.

Temperature and Light- Each crop has specific requirements. If the requirements are not met, the crop's performance will suffer.

Pests and Diseases- Thoroughly

How should I cut Mona Lisa anemone flowers?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 24 May 2010 12:17:00 GMT

Abstract: There are several recommendations for cutting anemone flowers. Commercially the flowers are cut just as they start to open. After cutting, place them in water with a commercial cut flower preservative to extend the life of the flower.

How are Dahlietta Louise propagated ? Is the flower used as seeds ?Can the leaves be rooted ?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 05 May 2010 11:23:00 GMT

Abstract: Dahlia Dahlietta Louise is propagated by vegetative means. Also it is a patented variety, and propagation is prohibited.

How do we pot on tibouchinia that look leggy? Do they sprout from from the bottom, or should we plant some of the stem?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 03:16:00 GMT

Abstract: Thanks for the question! If you are referring to Tibouchina grandifolia I would suggest planting at the same depth it is currently growing and pinching when established. It does grow into a rather large shrub, so you would want to have lateral shoots develop from the base of the plant.

How long does it take to go from seed to transplantable plug for marigolds?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:10:00 GMT

Abstract: It usually takes 3-4 weeks. The size of the plug will have some bearing on timing. Check out http://www.ballhort.com/Growers/seed_culture.aspx for details on the culture of Marigolds and other crops.

Are berri basket, berries galore, and pretty n pink strawberries forthe south zone 7. thank you.

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 02:22:00 GMT

Abstract: Yes, Berri Basket, Berries Galore, and Pretty N Pink Strawberries will do fine in Zone 7. If you have any further questions about vegetable and herb gardening, be sure to check out our Burpee Home Gardens website. (scroll down for the link) It is filled with veggie gardening answers, ideas and inspirations. You can also sign up to receive a free gardening guide for the 2010 planting season.

Do I need to pre-chill your snapdragon seeds?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 02:39:00 GMT

Abstract: No. Snapdragon seeds germinate just fine without "pre-chill".

Your culture sheets talk about stages but They dont always explain what each stage is. Can you give me a description of each stage of growth for seed germination?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:54:00 GMT

Abstract: Our varieties each have their own Grower Facts culture sheet, that's true, but even more information can be found under our Quick Culture webpage. (Scroll down for the link below.)

As a quick answer to your question:

I started Thumbergia from seeds. I sowed seeds on Jan. 17. The germination rate is very low. I only see about 50 to 60 plants in a 280 seed tray. The temps were 65 at night and 68 during the day. I placed the seed trays under a mist bench. Could you tell me what I am doing wrong?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 10:51:00 GMT

Abstract: One thing that could help the situation is increasing the germination temperature; it would help if you can maintain the temperatures at 70-75F at least during the germination process.

I am a teacher in a greenhouse class. We want to grow some bedding plants from seeds. I do not know how to order these seeds: How do I know how many seeds to order based on flats that hold 48 plants and what is their yield? Specifically: Alyssum-Coleus-Pansies-Petunias and Snapdragons.Also, if I start these seeds in two weeks, when should they be ready for sales? In other words, how many seeds would fill how many flats?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 08:08:00 GMT

Abstract: The germination percentage for our seed can usually be found on our packaging. It is essentially a guide to determine what the final yield of finished plants may be. There are many variables to be considered. These include, but are not limited to:

Unfortunately, to provide you reasonable numbers is somewhat impossible. For instance, just as a starting point, you might order 50% more seed than plants you plan to produce.

Our website, though, has a wealth of culture and growing information: www.ballhort.com/Growers/_QuickCulture.aspx. Here you can find culture and approximate crop times on the items you mentioned in your initial request.

Best Of Luck!

Is Salvia guaranitica (Black and Blue salvia) a perennial in zone 6? Is it a hybrid and can you grow it from seed?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 06:42:00 GMT

Abstract: Salvia guaranitica (Black and Blue salvia) is a perennial in Zones 7-10. This is not an F1 hybrid, so seed should be true to the species. Since the ones Ball FloraPlant offer are propagated by vegetative means, those from seed may not be as uniform.

I'm a new grower of cut flowers. What do you recommend to grow a few rows of Lavendula that is very fragrant, deep blue or purple that I can cut and sell in bouquets? I do not want to start from seed.

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 05:41:00 GMT

Abstract: There are a number of varieties that we offer that are tall enough to grow as a component in mixed bouquets. The following are listed as 24inches or so.
Goodwin Creek (L.x intermedia English Lavender)
Provence (L.x intermedia English Lavender)
Anouk (L. stoechas Spanish Lavender)
Spanish Eyes (L.multifda) which we offer as seed but could be grown as a plug.

I wanted to direct seed antigua marigolds into 6.5" pots, I was trying to cut down on cost. Would this work? If so, I wanted them ready by April 15th. When should I begin seeding them? Thanks

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 05:06:00 GMT

Abstract: Antigua Marigold could be sown directly in the container in which it will be finished. This does reduce the transplanting cost and may reduce total crop time slightly. These must be weighed against the space requirement in a germination area and the additional difficulty in managing the moisture with such a large media mass and small seedling.Also multiple seed would need to be sown in each container to assure a full finished container, since germination, although high, is never 100%. The total crop time for the crop would be at least 10 weeks.

How do you find out what zone you are in for the plants I want to grow in the spring?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 08:55:00 GMT

Abstract: The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) website features an interactive map that shows your Hardiness Zone by state. The map shows 10 different zones, each of which represents an area of winter hardiness for the plants of agriculture and our natural landscape. It also introduces zone 11 to represent areas that have average annual minimum temperatures above 40 F (4.4 C) and that are therefore essentially frost free.

Keep in mind knowing your zone is half the battle. Plants will need to survive the opposite extreme in temperature. Heat zones may need to be taken into account as well.

I'm a new grower at a nursery and want to know more about Astilbe. I'm not understanding the "cold treatment" that it needs. Just wanted more information about that.

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 07:22:00 GMT

Abstract: A number of perennials we grow have the requirement that they must be exposed to a period of cold temperatures before they will resume growth and flower. Astilbe is one of them.

Several requirements must be met before the plant is exposed to the cold treatment, referred to as vernalization. It must be past the juvenile stage and well established. A bare-root Astilbe is past the juvenility stage.

To establish the bare-root Astilbe plant, it is often planted in the finishing container in the fall and allowed to become established, developing a root system to the side of the growing container, before the required cold period. A temperature of 28 to 45 deg F for a period of 10-12 weeks is a general recommendation for Astilbe. Other species may require different lengths of time for the cold period.

Please tell me if the plant Cardinal Cordyline is a perennial. I want something that will come up every year and can stand the winters here in Chicago.

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 09:49:00 GMT

Abstract:

Cardinal Cordyline is not a perennial in Chicago, which is in USDA Hardiness Zone 5. Cordyline is only a perennial in Zone 9, which includes Florida and California.

If you are looking for a grass-like plant that will withstand the harsh Chicago winters, you can try varieties like Juncus, Koeleria and Panicum. These grasses make great accent plants in large containers and gardens and are hardy to USDA Zone 5.

Cold Temps For Petunias

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 06:21:00 GMT

Abstract: I live in Bakersfield, California, and the Wave is beautiful, but our winters are horrible! It's been in the 30's and 40's and the Wave doesn't seem to be doing too good -- only the one in the planter. How can I fix this? And how do you make them climb?
Mary Jane

Dear Mary Jane

Wave petunias can actually take some fairly cold conditions. They won’t grow quickly under colder temps but when the temps warm up they should jump back into action. As the weather improves regular fertilization will assure the strongest growth and flowering. To make them climb you will need to place some type of metal netting in the pot so that they have something to grow up on to. There are 5 series of Wave petunias each with different growth habits. To determine the best for your particular gardening needs, check the Wave-Rave website.

Sincerely,
Your Friends At Wave Petunias

What is the germination requirements of helitrope? wet dry? dark light? heat mat or cold.?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 04:54:00 GMT

Abstract: Heliotrope requires a media temperature of 70-72°F for best germination. Cover the seed lightly to maintain moisture at a moderate level. Light is not required for germination, but once germinated the seedlings should be placed in a bright environment. Continue to grow at 62-65°F night temperature in full sunlight.

Where can I find a native perennial guide by state?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 30 Dec 2009 08:43:00 GMT

Abstract: The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center at the University of Texas at Austin offers recommended species selection of Native Plant information on its network where you can search by state. Find it online at www.wildflower.org/collections/

For a general list of State Trees and State Flowers, visit the United States National Arboretum webpage at www.usna.usda.gov/Gardens/collections/statetreeflower.html

You can also find native plant alternatives to invasive plants in your garden at www.usna.usda.gov/Gardens/faqs/InvasivesAlternatives.html

Rotate Your Petunias

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 30 Dec 2009 08:40:00 GMT

Abstract: I have used Wave petunias for a few years and they are great. Unfortunately they have grown more poorly each year. They have been planted in the same planter. One year many of one color died early; the next year many of another color died early. In checking with the original developers of Wave petunias, they say that this is typical after a couple of years, and that they must be rotated with something else if the same area is used, in order to rebuild the soil. Can you confirm this? Also, can you suggest any organic soil amendments that I might add to the soil to reverse this situation?
Earl

Dear Earl,
It is correct in that Wave Petunias, and in fact any petunia, should not be planted in the same bed or container year after year. There is a build up of diseases, which may be detrimental to the crop. Farmers are aware of this and traditionally rotate their crops. We are suggesting home gardeners do the same.

Some excellent alternate crops are Dragon Wing Begonias, Serena or AngleMist Angelonia, sun-tolerant Coleus like Redhead, Henna, Indian Summer, etc.

You mention that the Waves were planted planters. If possible, replace the soil every year or so. If the planters are very large or have open bottoms that are in contact with the ground, you could replace the top 6 in. of soil. This will break the disease cycle.

An organic soil amendment will generally help improve the soil structure but do little to nothing to control diseases. Replacing the soil with a good-quality potting soil would be the best solution regardless of the crop you chose to grow.

Wave Petunia Hanging Basket

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 30 Dec 2009 08:28:00 GMT

Abstract: Hi! I looked you up in "Gardening How To". I Have a large hanging basket about 20 in. in diameter. I wanted to plant it with hanging petunias for the summer, but I think I need a lot of help!! If you can, I would appreciate it. I need to know what to order and how much. I would like them to hang down about 2 ft. or more. Anything will be good! Thank you!
Ralph

Dear Ralph,
Thank you for your question. The Wave Series of Petunias are excellent for hanging baskets. This is a series of vigorous, spreading Petunias that exhibit summer-long color and strong weather tolerance.

In a 20-in. basket I would recommend 5 – 7 plants per basket. The key to excellent Wave Petunias is to fertilize regularly to maximize their performance.

The Wave website (www.wave-rave.com) has useful information for success with your Waves. For cultural information, the FAQ page of the Wave site is very helpful (hyperlinks below).

Your Friends at Wave Petunias

What do you do with Juncus and the Mandela in the winter. I live at the tip of Lake Michigan in Indiana. Thanks!

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:13:00 GMT

Abstract: Most of the Juncus varieties are hardy in zones 5-10. An exception is Juncus Javelin, which is hardy in zones 7-9.Your area is generally considered zone 5. If these plants are in containers, which may be subject to frequent freezing and thawing, they may not survive -- even if you are in an appropriate hardiness zone.For your second plant (if you mean 'Mandeville') it will not tolerate freezing weather. You might want to take it insideand place it in a bright, sunny location until spring.

I have three pots with Henna Coleus and one pot with just one hardy new Canna leaf stalk. I live on the East slope of Queen Anne in Seattle. With winter setting in, should I cut back the Coleus, continue to water on a regular basis and leave on the balcony or bring inside or store. If store ... how is this done? DianeP.S. The plants are on the floor of my balcony and have some protection from the elements.

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 10:39:00 GMT

Abstract:

Coleus, regardless of variety, is not tolerant of low temperatures. If the temperatures in your location are going to be below 40°F growth will be minimal for a period of time. Any frost or freezing will kill the plant.

You may cut the plant back to a manageable size and bring it in to a sunny location. Water it enough to prevent wilting, and unless the plant is growing vigorously, a light fertilization once or twice during the winter should be satisfactory.

I bought mums this fall, now most of blooms turn black. What happened to them and how can I take care of themThank you

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 01:55:00 GMT

Abstract:

It is normal for the flowers of garden mums to die after a period of time. Unlike other bedding plants like petunias, impatiens, and marigolds, garden mums do not continue to develop flower buds and flower.

In warmer areas of the country garden mums may respond as perennials. To attempt to use the plant as a perennial, I suggest cutting the plant back to about one half to one third its current size and planting it outside. The plant may start to grow new shoots and over-winter and it may re-flower in the spring and/or the fall. Results are not guaranteed but many gardeners enjoy the challenge and the results.

Can I plant the Fame Red Garden Mum in the ground so it will come back next year??

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 02:39:00 GMT

Abstract:

Although many Garden Mums may overwinter in many different garden situations; the various varieties, of which there are hundreds, are not tested for their ability to survive overwintering. Temperature, exposure, variety, soils, diseases, etc. all play into whether the garden mum will survive. You may certainly try to over winter the plant, but we cannot guarantee success.

Can Lomandra confertifolia Seascape be planted on a seaside cliff where it will not only be exposed to salt air, but some salt spray?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:02:00 GMT

Abstract:

Yes! Lomandra 'Seascape' is popular with many seaside gardeners, both for its strong performance and its rippling movement in breezes. 'Seascape' is tolerant of salt spray as well as drought, making it a versatile choice in patio pots, along paths and retaining walls, and in rockeries.

I bought pot mums from you this year and I cannot find disbudding method recommendations for the cultivars anywhere on your website. How are we supposed to know if they need Center Bud Removal or Regular Disbud?Michelle Brooks Greenhouse CoordinatorUniversity of MO

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:50:00 GMT

Abstract:

There is a trend in the industry to do no disbudding. The reason is two fold. First it is an expense. Second the majority of the varieties grown today are small flowered varieties that produce a nice spray of flowers without disbudding.

If you do wish to remove the center bud, a somewhat more open spray of flowers may develop, but many growers do not feel it is worth the expense.

I have a Gartenmeister Upright Fuchsia (BD1292) which I would like to bring in for the winter. I read the answer to Q10155 on a Dark Eyes and wonder if the answer would be the same for mine.I have transplanted the Fuchsia to a pot and it remains in my garden.When is the best time to bring it in?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:49:00 GMT

Abstract:

Fuchsia such as Gartenmeister and trailing types are generally treated as annuals in most parts of the world. It is possible to over winter in a very bright window, with indirect sunlight, however fuchsia are very difficult to manage indoors, as they will usually stop flowering and may drop some leaves. Although possible, it is not normally recommended.

I am looking for the Brazilian Shield Strobilanthes. I bought it several years ago and like it better than the Persian Shield Strobilanthes.

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 07:10:00 GMT

Abstract:

Persian Shield is a strobilanthes dyerianus, which is an herbaceous shrub native to Burma. It's a relatively newer variety that Ball sells to commercial greenhouse growers.

Brazilian Shield is a strobilanthes lactatus from Brazil that has a green and white leaf pattern - instead of green and purple like Persian Shield.

Unfortunately, we do not offer Brazilian Shield to our grower customers. It is a very old variety that has been in the marketplace for quite some time.

The best thing to do would be to contact your local garden centers or extension office to see if they know where you can locate a Brazilian Shield Strobilanthes plant.

The mum crop I have for the fall came in fine, but with in about a three period and the first trimming, about three forths have developed yellowing on the new growth. I applied iron spray, which helped, but now they are yellowing further and I think they may have a pH problem. With our well, we inject sulfuric acid. Have had same problems with Wave Petunia and Vinca also.

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 05:32:00 GMT

Abstract: If the upper growth repeatedly turns yellow or chlorotic, you should look into your media, water quality, basic fertilizer program, and minor nutrient supply. Also, yellowing upper foliage can be a symptom of poor root growth. Poor root growth may be from over watering, poor drainage, or root disease.

We suggest you submit both media and foliage for nutrient analysis to see what the pH is, and where the nutrient levels are. It is very important to try to understand what the fundamental issue is with these crops. If the roots are damaged, as from Phythium root rot disease, we would suggest a drench with Banrot.

We have run into some confusion about whether your Luna Series Hibiscus are reliably hardy in Zone 5. We are pretty sure they are, but a supplier sent us a bunch tagged as "Annual, Hardy to Zone 6." Here at Logansport, Indiana, we came very close to the minus 20 lower limit of the Zone 5 description last winter, so this question is important to the D&R customers I talk to.

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 29 Jul 2009 04:44:00 GMT

Abstract:

In our trials here in Illinois - West Chicago and Elburn - Luna Hibiscus has always overwintered and we are located in USDA Hardiness Zone 5.

From its introduction a few years ago, Luna has been promoted as a perennial to Zone 5 and trials and grower/consumer feedback have shown that this series is very successful in the garden.

So you can continue to promote Luna Hibiscus as hardy to Zone 5 without any worries!

My tomato plants are doing quite well except I've found several tomatoes that have developed a flat bottom with a dark rot circle on them. What could this be and what can be done about it? Most of them are still green, but some have started to turn red.Thanks, Pat

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 09:59:00 GMT

Abstract:

It sounds like you might have what's called blossom-end rot on your tomatoes. There are many helpful articles on the web that provide a lot of information about blossom-end rot and how you can prevent it. You can search using your preferred search engine, like Google, Yahoo! or Bing.

You can also find specific care tips and growing information for tomatoes and other
vegetables by visiting the Burpee Home Gardens web site.

If you still do not find an answer to your growing questions, visit the Burpee Seed web site and submit your question through the "Gardener's Corner."

I planted a Champion II Tomato vine on May 24, 2009 and, while the plant has now grown to the top of the tomato cage, it has not put on a single flower blossom. It gets at least 6 hours of sun per day and about 6 hours of morning shade, It's in good soil and gets watered regularly. I have another variety planted next to it, which is full of blossoms and small tomatoes, but the Champion II variety appears to be barren. What am I doing wrong?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 05:46:00 GMT

Abstract:

For specific care tips and growing information for tomatoes and other vegetables, visit the Burpee Home Gardens web site. You'll find information about Champion II Tomatoes, as well as other varieties.

If you still do not find an answer to your growing questions, visit the Burpee Seed web site and submit your question through the "Gardener's Corner."

Anemones - smooth round side with dots after soaking. Is it root shoots or stem shoots? There isnt one close-up photo anywhere of true planting instructions.

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 09:04:00 GMT

Abstract:

If it's coming from the flat side, it's shoots. If it's on the curved side, then it's roots. Anemones have odd-shaped bulbs and sometimes it's difficult to tell.

They can still be planted and the shoots will grow up and the roots down even if the bulb is planted upside down.

Flag and O Canada Petunias were planted in the common areas of our community about 3 weeks ago. In the past 4 days, we have noticed many of the plants leaves have turned yellow and others have actually totally wilted and died. This is an irrigated area. What could be the cause?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 10:39:00 GMT

Abstract:

If this happens to your Wave Petunia plants, it may simply be a sign the plant needs more fertilizer. A regular application of a soluble fertilizer every 10 to 14 days is recommended.

Applying a slow-release fertilizer at the time you plant is also beneficial, although it may be depleted by late Summer. The use of a soluble fertilizer throughout the growing season is recommended, even if slow-release has already been used.

New leaves on bacopa are pale yellow to almost white. What is the problem?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 08:34:00 GMT

Abstract:

Bacopa are sensitive to iron deficiency caused by alkaline/basic soil and water conditions. Although iron may be present in soil, it is only available for plant uptake in a specific pH range.

The optimum soil pH is 5.5 to 6.2. Adjusting the soil pH may be difficult to do, but supplemental iron chelate applications may be required to promote good leaf color.

I got the Ball Designer Bright Scarlet landscape Geranium and it says fertilize every 2 weeks. Which fertilizer should I be using?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 27 May 2009 07:56:00 GMT

Abstract: For home gardeners, we always recommend using a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer for all of their annual bedding plants. There are multiple brands to choose from at your local garden center. Always follow the instructions indicated on the label.

Is there a plublished growing schedule for geraniums?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 26 May 2009 04:43:00 GMT

Abstract:

For cultural information, visit the Quick Culture page in the Growers' section of the Ball web site. Choose from seed or vegetative culture.

Since geraniums are vegetative plants, you can choose PDF culture sheets based on series or download a PDF of the annual culture chart list at the top of the vegetative culture page. You can also view growing and culture information by typing in a specific variety in the Plant Search.

I would like to know how much light transmission I need to grow shade plants in a new greenhouse I am building, ie. impaitiens, begonias, fushia, etc. I would like to use some of the new polycarbonates, like a light green. I would appreciate any info you could give me.

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 13 May 2009 08:12:00 GMT

Abstract:

We do recommend using a polycarbonate material and most commercial greenhouses use a fabric that offers 50 to 55% shading.

For more information about shade cloths and other materials for greenhouses, visit the ProGro Supply web site.

I have about 120 Waves I've grown from seed. I moved them outside during the day to harden them. After two days, I noticed about a dozen plants had a lot of leaves turning white. They were all nice, healthy plants two days ago. What should I do?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 07 May 2009 03:53:00 GMT

Abstract: When the plants are moved outside, they get tougher and use more feed. What you are describing is the typical “hungry plant” syndrome. Wave Petunias are heavy feeders, so we would recommend feeding twice a week. That should help them to bounce back and start thriving for you.

Sunrise Rose Lantana - is this a perennial?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 04:25:00 GMT

Abstract: There are two varieties of Sunrise Rose Lantana - Sunrise Rose Improved in the Landmark series and Sunrise Rose in the Lucky series. Both are new for 2010 and are annuals.

I grow Purple Wave Petunias for a chain store. They want them to be compact with bloom. Mine were planted the week of March 23 and today, April 20, are filling the pot, but no blooms. How can I control the size, plus bring the bloom on faster?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 20 Apr 2009 07:32:00 GMT

Abstract: First of all, the Purple Wave plant has to grow 14 to 16 leaves before you will see first flower. Given this, you need to stack the leaf notes until you get color. You can do this with a Bonzi drench at 5 to 6 ppm.

Secondly, the Purple Wave plant needs about 13-hour days to initiate flower. We are in that right now, but if the plants weren’t lit with either extended days of night interruption lighting, they will just be going into the flower initiation mode now. It takes approximately 3 to 4 weeks from flower initiation to flower color.

Thirdly, and most important, is to make sure the night temperature is about 62F. Purple Wave will stay vegetative even if the daylength is right for flower initiation if the night temps are below 60.

I have some Pink Dawn Lantana that I planted last year. It did really good, but my question is I have no idea what to do now that it is spring again. Do I cut down the woody stalks or what?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 05:54:00 GMT

Abstract:

Pink Dawn Lantana will only come back in Spring as a true perennial in USDA Zones 9-10 and usually does not re-emerge after the Winter in other zones.

If you live in Zones 9-10, you can trim the plant down to a manageable size to encourage growth during Spring and Summer.

Info please on propogation. I have two small heated propagators which are full at the moment. I am interested in the bench wire heating or anything you suggest similar, but a larger scale. Where do I get info for starting the seed plug cells?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 05:54:00 GMT

Abstract:

Ball does not sell heat mats directly to commercial growers, however you can purchase heat mats and other propagators directly throught the suppliers.

Charley's Greenhouse, Growers Supply and True Leaf all sell heat mats for greenhouse propagation, along with information on how to use them. They provide equipment that is ideal for greenhouse businesses of every size.

I need to lower the pH in my growing medium, My plants are not happy. The pH is at 6.6. All are bedding plants that should be between 5.5 and 6.0. The crop is already planted. What can I add to my fertilizer to lower the pH fast?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 11:20:00 GMT

Abstract:

There are several possible means to reducing the pH in a commercial bedding plant growing media:

1) Dissolve 1 to 2 pounds of iron sulfate (FeSO4 7H2O) in 100 gallons of water. Apply to the root substrate. Be sure to rinse off the foliage after application.
2) Use a fertilizer like 21-7-7, which tends to lower pH.
3) Utilize acid injection into the irrigation water. This requires appropriate injection equipment and knowledge of the water quality.

Be aware that some crops require a somewhat higher pH. Examples are Geraniums, Marigolds and Pentas, so don’t overadjust the pH.

My 10" impatiens hanging baskets are filling out the pot almost to the edge. What growth regulator do I use to keep them nice and mounded and full of flowers and not gangly. Thanks Eric

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 02 Apr 2009 09:45:00 GMT

Abstract: In the grower area of BallHort.com you will find culture information, including recommendations for PGRs to use on both seed and vegetative varieties of impatiens (see the link below).

A general recommendation for baskets which are approaching or are of saleable size, is a drench of 0.25 -2.00 ppm of Bonzi. It may delay flowering.

It may not be labeled for use on impatiens in all locations so be sure to check before using and always follow the label instructions.

Local retailer of Fanfare Impatiens. Fort Worth, Texas area.

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 02 Apr 2009 06:17:00 GMT

Abstract: Home gardeners can buy our plant varieties from many retail garden centers throughout North America.

To find a retailer in their area, home gardeners can visit the Simply Beautiful web site and search by zip code.

Check out the link below to visit this helpful home grower web site!

I have been using Ball III growers mix for several years with great results. I always use bags left from the prior year to start vegetable seeds. ( I know it says on the bag to use in 6 months) I have always had good results with this until this year, is there something I can add to the mix to refresh it for better results? Thanks!

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 09:53:00 GMT

Abstract:

Think of the “use in 6 months” in the same way that you would when you see use before a certain date indicated on many food items. It doesn’t mean that the product is definitely of no use after that date, but it does serve as an indicator to check before use.

Ball Soil Mixes have a charge of nutrients added to adjust pH and supply some initial fertility for the crop being grown. Because of microbial activity and the environment in which the mix is stored, the nutrient availability changes over time, thus the suggestion to use in 6 months. To use the mix after a year or so, you could have a soil test done which would indicate the nutrient status of the mix and enable you to determine what may be needed to adjust the mix to an optimum status.

Ball Growing Mix 3 is formulated for finishing crops in pots or bedding plant containers. There is a Ball Mix for seed germination which provides an optimum media environment for seed germination.