Ball Horticultural Knowledge Base

Regarding propagating unrooted ivy and zonal geraniums: I always have a percentage of cuttings that start to rot rather than callus like the rest are doing. We stick them in ellepots, everythings sterile, mist and temp are sticking practices are controlled, and I spray with Daconil at days 1or 2, and 4 or 5. I worry about putting a fungicide drench on for fear of inhibiting roots. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. Mike

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 05:24:00 GMT

Abstract:

There are three factors that one should consider:

Soil temperature: should be in the 70°F range

Sanation: You seem to have this OK

Mist: Many use too much. The mist is to maintain 100% humidity to prevent wilting, not irrigate the crop. I suspect this is your problem although other factors should also be evaluated.

can you grow geraniums with only grow lights

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 07:17:00 GMT

Abstract:

While it certainly is possible to grow a geranium under grow lights, the quality would certainly suffer.

Geraniums require high light intensity to perform well, and without a sophisticated lighting system, it is best achieved in a greenhouse.

This is the second year in a row that when trying to propigate citronella geraniums, they dont do well at all. Lots of brown leaves - they almost look like theyve been touched by frost. Do you know if they are a species that is especially prone to ethynol gas intolerance? The plants were in closed boxes overnight, and were wondering if this could be the problem. Any suggestions?Thanks,Jane Rinzema

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 06:14:00 GMT

Abstract:

Scented Leaf Geraniums generally respond well to the same cultural practices as Zonal Geraniums. Below are some key points to follow.

1) First be sure to source supply cuttings from clean, virus indexed stock.

2) Open the boxes and check the cuttings on receipt and stick immediately. If necessary store over night at 40°F

3) Maintain a high degree of sanitation in your media, contain

Hello, What methods do you use for dormancy breaking in seeds and plants? Thank you for you time.

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:41:00 GMT

Abstract:

The conditions required to overcome dormancy in certain plants and seeds varies greatly by species and even cultivar.

Cooling below the normal growing temperature is the general method utilized. The cooling varies greatly in length of time at the cooling temperature and at the actual temperature to meet the requirement for the particular plant.

There are also some chemical treatments which may substitute, at least in part, for the cool treatment in some plants.

I have a beautiful SHERBET BONBON TUBEROUS BEGONIA. tO TRY TO SAVE IT SHOULD i REMOVE IT FROMITS HANGING BASKET AND STORE THE TUBER AS OTHER BEGONIAS OR SHOULD i JUST CUT IT BACK AND LEAVE IT IN THE HANGING BASKET IN A COOL ROOM?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:13:00 GMT

Abstract:

Begonia Sherbet Bonbon is not a tuberous begonia, it is technically Begonia boliviensis. There may be a small tuber, but generally keeping the plant as a vegetative form would be the best choice for overwintering. Keep in a high light area with moderate watering, little or no fertilizer till spring, and somewhat high humidity.

Looking for deer resistant annuals that will thrive in afternoon shade. Any suggestions?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:23:00 GMT

Abstract:

You can find a complete list of deer resistant varieties at the following link: http://njaes.rutgers.edu/deerresistance/

I wish to train Caprilla Cream lonicera to a wire fence.How high and wide will it get? Can I prune it? When to prune? Blooms on new or old wood? I am in zone 5a. Is it too late to put it in the ground (Aug 18th)? Any tips? Jim

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 02:59:00 GMT

Abstract:

Caprilla Cream Lonicera, typically an evergreen vine, grows to 5 feet tall and wide. You can plant it in the ground now, and it will grow well on a trellis or a wire fence. This plant is perfectly hardy in Zone 5 – I have a plant in zone 5A blooming! For best results, prune the plant after it’s done flowering.

Will sweet potato vines produce edible potatos?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 05 Jul 2011 09:07:00 GMT

Abstract: It’s our understanding that ornamental sweet potato vine tubers are edible. However, they may or may not taste very good. We recommend checking with your local university extension agent for regional confirmation. You can find your nearest office through the USDA: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/.

I have a Sunny Lemon Star Black-eyed Susan Vine and it is dying. I live in WVa. have the plant in Sunny location but, something is killing it . Have no idea why. Thought maybe you would. It was so pretty when I bought it...Thanks, Shirley Britton

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 08:59:00 GMT

Abstract:

Thank you for your inquiry concerning problems you are experiencing with Sunny Thunbergia.

Without seeing the problem and knowing precisely what has been done to the plants, I cannot determine the cause of the problem. Several points you may want to consider:

Soil - It should be well drained and clean for container grown crops, not just soil dug from the garden. Most commercial soil mixes you purchase are satisfactory. For crops growing in beds, the addition of organic matter such as peat moss, compost, etc. will improve drainage and aeration which is important to most crops.

Water - Watering is often considered an art, not a science. It is likely the single biggest cause why plants do not perform to their maximum potential for the home gardener. Do not allow the plant to dry out to the point of wilting or over water. The growing container or basket should have drainage holes. Whe

Hello!I bought 2 of the New Black Velvet Petunias this year. Im loving them, planted with hot pink calibrocia. Question is, two of the flowers (not the whole plant) have the yellow stripe. A co-worker has the same thing going on at her house! Love them either way, but wondering whats up? Thanks Much, Colleen

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 08 Jun 2011 03:19:00 GMT

Abstract: Thank you for your inquiry, and for buying Black Velvet petunia. Mixing Black Velvet with hot pink colors is a fabulous combination!

We have noticed that Black Velvet gets some yellow striping; it is the nature of this variety and there’s not a whole lot to be done about it. The yellow striping occurs when there are changes in the environment, like going from warm to cold weather or the other way around; from little water to a lot of water; or from a lot of sunny days to rainy days. You will notice that when the environment stabilizes and the current blooms (with striping) are out of flower, the fresh new blooms will be solid black again.

I can no longer find your extensive list of cultural Guides for flower seeds online. Is it still available?

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 05:59:00 GMT

Abstract: There are a couple different places on this web site where you can find culture information.

First, you can go to the Quick Culture page and look for the specific seed or vegetative variety in the menus.

Or you can look for the crop in the Plant Search. Most of the more popular plants include culture sheets that can be downloaded as PDF files.

For specific growing questions, feel free to contact one of our experts by calling 1-800-879-BALL.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FOR FANFARE IMPATIENS AND FIESTA IMPATIENS TO BE READY IN 4" POTS

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 31 May 2011 07:06:00 GMT

Abstract:

There are a couple different places on this web site where you can find culture information.

First, you can go to the Quick Culture page and look for the specific seed or vegetative variety in the menus.

Or you can look for the crop in the Plant Search. Most of the more popular plants include culture sheets that can be downloaded as PDF files.

For specific growing questions, feel free to contact one of our experts by calling 1-800-879-BALL.

Do you have cultivation information on Chard, ornamental, and ornamental kale/cabbage.

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 25 May 2011 06:18:00 GMT

Abstract:

The two website links below are excellent references for producing ornamental vegetables. These and many other Horticulture Information Leaflets from the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, Department of Horticultural Science of the North Carolina State University are available at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/.

I have several Fiesta (Hot Pink) Double Impatiens. They were doing well until the birds discovered them. Now the birds are hanging out in the plants and knocking off all the blooms and buds, I have had to replace soil in all the plants. I have not been able to determine what kind of bird, but they are gray/brown, about the size of a sparrow with small amounts of orange markings. Is there any way I can discourage the birds and protect my plants from them?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 19 May 2011 08:39:00 GMT

Abstract:

There are not many things one can do to prevent bird damage. It sounds like the bird wants to nest in your flowers.

If these are in containers or baskets I would suggest moving to a distinctly different location.

Another possibility is to make a cover of a material such as chicken wire to surround your plants. This would not obstruct viewing the flowers.

Finally if the bird is trying to nest, leave it. It can be fun to watch the eggs hatch and the young birds grow and eventually fly away.

I would like to know if the peach cobbler nectar bush ( buddleja podaras) is poisonous or harmfull to dogs?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 19 May 2011 08:20:00 GMT

Abstract:

Thank you for your inquiry. I cannot find any reference to toxins in buddleja cultivar “Podaras” . This does not mean however that there may not be problems if a dog were to ingest parts of the plant, but it would seem there is minimal toxicity.

The following is a good reference you may want to check. www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/

What temperatures would you grow aster milady mixed at during propagation? Sowing,pricking out, growing-on ? Thanks

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 09:05:00 GMT

Abstract: For Asters (Callistephus chinensis) cover lightly and maintain a soil temperature of 68-72°F at sowing. The seedlings should be ready to transplant in about 15-20 days. Then, grow on at 58-60°F nights.

Are there any fungicide drenches recommended for commerical production of colocasia as preventative or curative?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 26 Apr 2011 08:48:00 GMT

Abstract:

The use of all pesticides, which includes fungicides, is very much controlled by the label information for the product.

First, determine the pest that you may want to control / prevent. Then, determine from the product labels which would be appropriate for the pest and crop in question. Finally, follow the appropriate application methods.

There will likely be more than one possible product for your control needs, and it is difficult to make a general recommendation.

Height and width, and light requirements for:Coleus: Carefree Mix & Emotions CollectionZonal Geranium: Rose & Red PassionIvy Geranium: Dark Lavender & RubyImpatiens: Super Elfin: Starbust Mix & Improved VioletPetunia, Easy Wave: Great Lakes Mix, Flag Mix, OCanadaPetunia, Double Wave: Double Madness, Series MixZinnia: Magellan, State Fair Mix, Uproar Rose

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 24 Mar 2011 02:12:00 GMT

Abstract:

You can find the height, width lighting and other growing tips at our Website http://www.ballhort.com/Retailers/advancedsearch.aspx. You will also find links to very specific culture information.

Are tomato varieties listed as tolerent to Tobacco Mosaic Virus tolerent (virus still spreads throughout the plant) or resistant (no virus is detected in upper portions of the plant) to the virus?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 02 Mar 2011 05:20:00 GMT

Abstract:

A very technical and proper definition to tolerance / resistance follows:

“Relative to a disease-susceptible plant, disease resistance is often defined as reduction of pathogen growth on or in the plant, while the term disease tolerance describes plants that exhibit less disease damage despite similar levels of pathogen growth.”

A major breeder / producer of hybrid tomatoes, Seminis Vegetable Seeds, in their publication, Tomato Diseases, they use the term resistance. Their definition of resistance is:

“The ability of plants to suppress or retard the activities of a specific pest or pathogen. Also, the ability of plants to withstand a specific environmental or chemical stress.”

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 02:17:00 GMT

Abstract:

We have sold hundreds of thousands of copies of the Ball Redbook around the world. It is considered the “bible” for the greenhouse industry, loaded with detailed production information. It is now in its 17th edition, which is split into two volumes. You can learn more about the Ball RedBook and ordering information at http://www.ballpublishing.com/BallPub/_RedBook.aspx Contact Melissa Parrish at mparrish@ballpublishing.com if you have questions.

Ball also has an online database of culture information for Seed and Vegetative varieties. You can access our Quick Culture page at: http://www.ballhort.com/Growers/_QuickCulture.aspx

i am using the new black supertunia and phantom in my baskets and containers this year .... could you please give me culture info on them if this variety has any specific needs ??? i.e. fertilization needs, ph requirements, need for growth regulators ??? my Ball rep is clyde seery, i feel i ask him too many questions, thought maybe you could answer these .... :) thank you suzy

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 06:07:00 GMT

Abstract:

For the type of information on Black Velvet, Phantom and Pinstrip petunias, I would suggest going to the Quick Culture section of our website, specifically http://www.ballhort.com/Growers/veg_culture.aspx. There you will find charts and detailed information on a wide range of crops.

I believe it was in 2006 when you conducted a survey in gardening trends. The survey revealed that the twenty-somethings would do less gardening themselves and hire out any landscaping work that needed to be done. I was wondering if you have any current survey results that indicate a new trend. Thanks for your time.Kathleen

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 05:44:00 GMT

Abstract: Ball Horticultural Company has recently conducted consumer research on Perennials and Vegetables. A summary of our findings can be found through our December 2010 Retailer Report: http://www.ballhort.com/Retailers/IGCReport.aspx?articleid=27#article

we are looking to save money and grow our own annual flats this year in 1203s. Im looking at mostly vegetables and some annuals. What is the finish time on these, and looking for largest plug tray avail

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 14 Feb 2011 05:43:00 GMT

Abstract: For the type of information you are looking for, I would suggest going to the Quick Culture section of our website, specifically http://www.ballhort.com/Growers/_QuickCulture.aspx There you will find charts and detailed information on a wide range of crops.

You must keep in mind that plugs of different sizes have different finish times - even for the same variety. This is a variable which you may have to adjust for, because many times every item is not available in the same-size plug.

datura seed-do you cover or not cover the seed?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 02:00:00 GMT

Abstract:

Datura seed should be covered lightly. Maintain a media temperature of 70-75°F (21-24°C) and the seed generally will germinate in 18-25 days.

NOTE: Datura is a highly poisonous.

We are a landscape design corp. Last year at one of our properties which is on the ocean we planted 66 hanging baskets that are 36" in diameter. In each one we used 12 4" sweet potatoe vines, they grew extemely well but later in the season were damaged by salt spray from the ocean. Is there anything else that i can substitute that will hold up better and also give me the spillage over the container edge? Thanks for your help!

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 04:09:00 GMT

Abstract:

As you realize salt spray creates a very adverse environment for almost any plant.

The website, http://pender.ces.ncsu.edu/files/library/71/Salt%20Tolerant%20Plants.pdf, developed by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Is an excellent reference of species which may do well in this environment.

Several species you may consider are listed below.

Climbing Fig Ficus pumila

Carolina Jessamine Gelsemium sempervirens

necesito informacion completa para tener exito en la germinacion de mis semillas ball como por ejemplo: bandejas sustrato colocacion de la semilla si hay algo para agilisar la puesta de la semilla en la bandeja fertilizacion de una semilla germinada

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 04:06:00 GMT

Abstract:

A number of detailed Grower Facts in several languages can be found at the Ball Horticultural website: http://www.ballhort.com/Growers/_QuickCulture.aspx. You’ll find information on plug production for many major crops.

The book “Plug & Transplant Production – A Growers Guide” is a very comprehensive publication I also recommend for the more technical side of plug production. It is out of print, but you may find a copy in a local horticulture college library.

I have always used Showstopper Impatiens for my hanging baskets. I put 3 on top and 6 in holes around the sides. I dont see a lot of availablity on this varieity. Is there something better to use?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 06 Jan 2011 06:39:00 GMT

Abstract: Although we do not list ShowStopper Impatiens in our catalogue this year, there are a number of other excellent series that we believe you will find produce striking baskets. The new Impreza(tm) series has a habit which will surround a basket with brilliant flowers while not becoming rank with floppy plants. There are some very outstanding colors in the series plus the basic impatiens colors. The Dazzler® and Super Elfin® Series also lend themselves to basket production and offer a wide assortment of colors from which to choose.

Each yeach we keep the poinsettias , pinch them back in the spring, and fertilize them heavily throughout the summer while growing them outdoors. When do we protect them from, artificial light so they will bloom? I usually start in early Nov. They have successfully bloomed for several years now but the blooms are smalll. They usually have 1 or 2 less bracts then the commercial poinsettieas. Advice?

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 21 Dec 2010 02:56:00 GMT

Abstract:

The Paul Ecke Ranch is one of the leaders in the breeding, introduction, promotion, and distribution of poinsettias for over 75 years.

The website below is a very good resource of information on poinsettia care in the home including information on re-blooming the Christmas plant.

http://www.ecke.com/html/h_corp/corp_pntcare.html#rebloom Dragon Wing™ begonia is a variety that is propagated by seed. Your experience of propagation by cuttings is typical of the problems that occur trying to propagate any fibrous begonia by cuttings.

The website http://www.ballhort.com/media/Culture/PAS/BegoniaDragonWing.pdf will give you cultural information on growing Dragon Wing begonias from seed. Plugs are also available if you want to eliminate the germination phase.

I know that your Plentifall trailing pansy is very cold tolerant to well below zero. However, will they survive 20 F temperatures in hanging pots?Im thinking that the soil might freeze solid after several hours at 20F and may kill them. Im bringing them inside but I just wonder if i really need to.Thanks for you help.

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 08 Dec 2010 08:57:00 GMT

Abstract: Even the most hardy plants often have a difficult time surviving in a hanging basket outside in colder climates. The problem isn’t just that the soil freezes, but the freezing and thawing as the weather changes puts additional stresses on the plant. I would suggest putting the basket in a protected location where there are not large swings in temperature and exposure to winds, which lead to dehydration.

I have the Mammoth Twilight Pink Perrenial Mums and Im wondering how to keep them throughout the winter so I can have them in the spring? They are still in a container but are starting to die.

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 05 Nov 2010 03:08:00 GMT

Abstract:

Generally it is difficult to overwinter even the toughest perennials growing in containers in any but the mildest climates. Hardiness is not the problem, but rather the relatively small soil mass can remain too wet or too dry and is also subject to frequently refreezing.

If you are in a colder climate you can try planting your Mammoth Mum in the ground in a somewhat protected location even though it is late. Some covering can be beneficial after the ground freezes.

In milder climates, even though it may freeze occasionally, placing the container with the plant in a protected location either outside or in an unheated structure may give satisfactory results.

It is natural for the tops of mums to die off as it overwinters; you can cut this off in the spring. New growth comes from underground.

i bought a couple buddleia petite plants. how can I keep them over winter without planting them until spring?

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 20 Oct 2010 03:11:00 GMT

Abstract: To keep your Petite Buddleja nectar bushes overwinter, you can place them in a garage or basement as long as the space is warmer than 35º F. The bushes will be dormant, but be sure to keep them watered. Then, once you’re past the last day of frost for your area in the spring, plant them outside in your desired location.

You can also plant them now in a holding area in your garden: Mulch them with leaf mulch or other organic matter and water them thoroughly when you plant them. Keep them watered during warmer periods during the winter.

Hi. We are growing primula primlet and the double flowered Belarina. Do they need to be subjected to cool temperatures to help induce flowering or will they be okay in a slightly warmer greenhouse? We grow the bedding primulas and polyanthus in a net sided cold house although I could make space on one of the cyclamen benches in a greenhouse with a frost stat. Many thanks in anticipation.Kind regardsJeremy Craske

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 13 Oct 2010 06:43:00 GMT

Abstract:

For detailed culture of Primula Primlet please see the following link on the Ball Horticultural website: http://www.ballhort.com/media/Culture/PAS/PrimulaPrimlet.pdf.

There is detailed information on recommended growing temperatures. This cultural information will apply to most Primula acaulis varieties.

HOW DO I KEEP HENNA COLEUS, POT CARNATIONS, HIEMALIS AND IMPATIENS THRU THE WINTER INDOORS??? CAN I LET THEM GO DORMANT OR DO I NEED TO PUT THEM IN A BIGGER CONTAINER AND KEEP IN THE SUN???

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 08 Oct 2010 08:34:00 GMT

Abstract:

To carry these plants over winter it would be important to place them in a location where they receive the maximum amount of light.

The temperature should be on the cool side, at least by our normal house standards. Daytime temperatures of 60-65°F and 10 degrees cooler would be satisfactory. Of these varieties the carnation prefers the coolest temperature.

The goal should be to keep the plants alive. Since vigorous growth is not beneficial in this environment, water sparingly and fertilizer at a low rate only once or twice during the winter.

It may be advisable to cut the plants somewhat, depending on their size and repot if they appear to be severely root bound.

As spring approaches it will be necessary to water and feed more. Perhaps even move the plants outside on nicer days.

We have a crop of florist mums that have not set bud. We are using a 15-10-30 fertilizer. The day temperatures have been very high in the upper 90s could that cause a problem? Also, some of the leaves are turning yellow. We are going to try an iron treatment, is that what you recommend?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 06:29:00 GMT

Abstract:

There are several possibilities as to why the mums you are growing are not developing buds.

First, all mums will initiate buds depending on age and environment. The problem occurs if conditions are such that subsequent development is hindered. The most likely cause of this is the possibly of high temperatures as you mentioned or long daylength.

You said these were florist mums. Whether they are pot or cut type mums, for flowering this time of year “black cloth” short day treatment is required for reliable timing of flowering.

In regards to the yellow foliage, I would suggest more fertilizer. You should try a 20-10-20 at 200-300 ppm with a constant feed program. The rate can be reduced to 150-200 ppm as the crop matures with no feed the last few weeks.

We buy a lot of our product from you......We are looking into seeding the New Leucanthemum Shasta White Breeze. We will seed in a 105 tray for gallon pots. How many seeds should I use for each plug? Also, how many plugs should I use for the gallon pot? What is the germination of these seeds? Thank you in advance for your help.Chris

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 05:50:00 GMT

Abstract:

Generally we would suggest one seed per cavity. One plug per gallon container should make a nice saleable unit. Germination is indicated on the package and will vary somewhat by the seed lot.

Is the Fiesta Ole Double Impatiens a poisonous plant?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 05:48:00 GMT

Abstract:

Impatiens are not listed as toxic to humans on the Texas A&M Aggie Horticulture list of “Common Poisonous Plants and Plant Parts”

Click on the link below to view this list.

DO I CUT BACK MUMS FOR WINTER

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:56:00 GMT

Abstract: Although many Garden Mums are sold as perennials, they are in fact not reliable as a perennial in Zones 6 or lower. This aside, do not trim the plants back before early spring.

Some mums seem to have what we think is early bud set, will this cause them to not bloom? Do we need to pick them out?

Ball Hort Editor — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 08:40:00 GMT

Abstract:

It is not unusual to have premature budding. This may be caused by environmental conditions, variety, and even planting earlier than optimum. In most situations this causes no problem in regard to final flowering. The plant continues to grow and the newer flowers bloom at the normal time.

Some times the early buds/flowers are removed, but this is generally not required.

I recently purchased one of your fall mums. I believe they are perennials... but when I transplanted one into my garden a couple of years ago, it didnt survive the winter. Can you confirm that my quest for having a beautiful mum plant come up every year in my garden is achievable?Thanks!

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 06:52:00 GMT

Abstract:

Although many Garden Mums are sold as perennials, they are in fact not reliable as a perennial in Zones 6 or lower. This aside, do not trim the plants back before early spring. You may find that some plants have survived the winter and as the weather warms you may find new, green growth emerging from the soil. Temperature, exposure, variety, soils, diseases, etc. all play into whether the garden mum will survive. You may certainly try to over winter the plant, but we cannot guarantee success.

How do I determine how many bags of soil I need to purchase if I have 100 plants in 4 packs?

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 03:54:00 GMT

Abstract:

The attached conversion table will help you determine how many bags of soil to purchase.

Please bear in mind that while we've tried to be accurate, these fiures have to be treated as approximations. Soil volumes may vary, depending upon the type of soil involved and the packing methods used. Actual pot dimensions will vary from one manufacturer to another.

mums turn yellow all over worse in new growth plants on both sidesof yellow plant are ok is this some type of virus

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 03:25:00 GMT

Abstract:

This would not be a symptom of a mum disease caused by a virus. Some possible causes are:

Root loss which may be caused by Pythium.
Iron deficiency in the media, possibly because of high pH.

Having trouble germinating snapdragon. Tried 4 1/2 days in chambers, pulled out when cotyledon emerged and only got about 70% germination. the next week left in the chambers for 5 1/2 days and got much better germination but some germinated in the chambers. Chambers are approx 78% day and 70% nights. I know these plants want to be germinated at a cooler temp but average day temp now is 100 + and greenhouse temp where seed is stays at about 80 - 85 thank you

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 03:11:00 GMT

Abstract:

Visit our website at ballhort.com for detailed information on snapdragon germination and culture. Although this may not be the variety you are growing, the germination would be the same for all snapdragons. Click the link below for Snapdragon culture:

http://www.ballhort.com/media/Culture/PAS/SnapSnapshot.pdf

Can you give me more info about Kilimanjaro Euphorbia?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 08:30:00 GMT

Abstract: Because of its decorative, white-edged foliage and long-lasting flower bracts, Kilimanjaro is often regarded as a home garden cut flower—it is too short to be considered for commercial cut use. Gardeners will enjoy planting this Summer annual in clusters in the border for contrast, and then cutting the flower stems for use in floral arrangements. As you would expect with Euphorbia, Kilimanjaro takes full sun and requires little to moderate water.

Do you carry in your Horticultural supplies a metal device that screws onto a water faucet that distributes liquid fertilizer to plants? It has a small rubber hose that is placed in a bucket containing the fertilizer solution. The fertilizer solution is taken up through the small rubber hose and mixes with the water in the hose. If you do, what is the cost?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 07:02:00 GMT

Abstract:

Ball does not carry this item. It is called a hozon. It is a 16:1 injector used with a ¾ inch garden hose.

Click on the link below to find more information and to find a distributor near you.

Is it possible to purchase new guinea impatiance seeds?

Ball Hort Editor — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 04:13:00 GMT

Abstract:

There is a New Guinea Impatiens seed variety called Divine. Ball sells seed and other plant products to commercial greenhouse growers. We do not have direct-to-consumer sales. However, home gardeners can find Ball varieties through mail-order companies, like Burpee, Park Seed and White Flower Farm.

Check out the link below for a list of mail-order suppliers and there contact information.

what is meant by "mounding" plants...or plants for "mounding"

Ball Hort Editor — Wed, 04 Aug 2010 10:24:00 GMT

Abstract: A mounded plant has a rounded, ball-like shape that creates a neat and contained mound of color.

My Luna Red hibiscus has not bloomed by mid July. Its covered with clusters of small buds rather than larger ones this year. Should I de-bud some of the buds to get large flowers?

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 07:08:00 GMT

Abstract: Hi KatieThis is about the time Luna Hibiscus, which has over-wintered, would bloom here in the Midwest. We would suggest not removing buds.These plants do require full sun and ample moisture to do their best.

Is there a trick to get Alyssum pelleted or coated seed to germinate evenly. Our difficulty has been in getting the pellet or coating to dissolve even with the wettest possible misting programs. This happens even with the Snow Crystal and Clear Crystal varieties, which are superior when the seed is raw.

Ball Hort Editor — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 05:56:00 GMT

Abstract: To assure germination, one of the major factors is temperature. The recommended temperature for Stage 1 of plug production ranges from the mid 70s-80°F depending on the reference. The point is that a rather warm soil temperature is best for germination. Next, the recommendation for the multi-seed pellet is to cover rather thickly with vermiculite and thoroughly wet the area.

For three years my one bed won't grow anything. I have it around a sunset maple tree. I tried impatiens - they just sat there and then turned black and died. I tried petunias - they lasted longer and did the same thing. I tried impatiens again with the same results. What could be wrong? I have successfully grown impatiens in this bed before this.

Ball Hort Editor — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 06:28:00 GMT

Abstract: Thank you for your inquiry. Below are some points you may want to review in light of your problem. If these do not help you may want to have a soil test done. Most major universities with horticultural departments can do this. This will only give nutritional information of the soil. If the problem is disease, the same institutions may be able to determine the cause if they have the dying plants to test.

Without seeing the problem and knowing precisely what has been done to the plants, we cannot determine the cause of the problem. Several points you may want to consider:

Soil- It should be well drained and clean for container grown crops, not just soil dug from the garden. Most commercial soil mixes you purchase are satisfactory. For crops growing in beds, the addition of organic matter such as peat moss, compost, etc. will improve drainage and aeration, which is important to most crops.

Water- Watering is often considered an art, not a science. It is likely the single biggest cause plants do not perform to their maximum potential for the home gardener. Do not dry to the point of wilting or over water. The growing container or basket should have drainage holes. When watering, always apply enough water to have some drip from the container. Re-water when the soil an inch or so deep in the containerseems moderately dry to the touch.

Fertilizer- Too much can cause burn. Use at the recommended rate or less at regular intervals. In general, the more often you water a plant the more often fertilizer needs to be applied. When applying liquid fertilizers to a crop it is advisable that the soil not be too dry. A slow release type fertilizer, such as Osmocote, may be a good choice for plants that must be watered often or liquid fertilizer is too inconvenient to apply.

Temperature and Light- Each crop has specific requirements. If the requirements are not met, the crop's performance will suffer.

Pests and Diseases- Thoroughly